Intriguing things

Pivo = beer

There are a couple of things that intrigue me in parts of the Balkans.

Beer prices:  It's sometimes the same price - or even a little cheaper - to buy an 0.5 litre beer  ("pivo" ) than an 0.33 beer.   Apparently this has something to do with the fact that the small bottles are not returnable but the larger bottles are.  The beer is said to be the same.  I don't get it, but I did take advantage of it.

Names of taxis: there are some interestingly-named taxi companies!  "Pink" taxis are found in many cities, but apparently this doesn't have quite same connotations as it does in some western countries.   And presumably the meaning of words sometimes changes in translation! (See image below).

Farewell to Belgrade and final reflections

We arrived in Serbia just over 3 weeks ago.    We've been based in Belgrade, but have had good side trips to Bosnia (Banja Luka/Sarajevo/Mostar), Vrnjacka Banja and Kraljevo.   A real highpoint has been our two visits to the Barajevo monastery.   We've been shown great hospitality (especially by Rada, with whom we've been staying), and we've benefited from an exchange rate which has worked in our favour.

We've had warm weather most of the time that we've been here.  The past few days have been well into 30s.   However, on most evenings there's a breeze which is nice.

There's always somewhere to have a drink, and I've noticed one or 2 Maccas.   I'm pleased to report I've seen no sign of Starbucks.  Many cafes have cappuccino on the menu, but what you receive varies.   It's better to consult the menu and - if available - ask for a Nescafe or "expresso with milk".   These are often better than what passes for cappuccino, and sometimes cheaper, too.

New tram (Spanish)

With Sue's language skills (and ability to read cyrillic),  we haven't really tested the ability to survive on English alone.   My assessment is that it would be possible, although a little preparation (such as writing down your destination!) would be in order.    We have encountered many people with excellent English who are very willing to use it, and almost everyone can understand a little but (understandably) are not always confident speaking it.   Restaurant menus (especially in areas where visitors are likely to be) are often available in English.    However, when travelling, it would be helpful to know the cyrillic version of your destination - although signs are usually in latin, there are exceptions!  With a little research, the trams, trolley buses and buses are easy to use in order to get around the city (although regular tram services can be altered at weekends, presumably to allow for upgrading work).

Modern trolley buses

Older tram

The time has now come to move on.  We're off to Istanbul today (Monday) for a few days, and from there will fly home at the end of the week.


For  dinner on our last night, we went to nearby restaurant Lipov Lad.   This was very good indeed, in fact, as good as any meal that we've had here.  Apparently we're not the only ones who like this restaurant, because Vuk Jeremic (well known politician) was at the next table.

I think I'll have internet access in Istanbul, but if this doesn't eventuate, then I guess there will be no blogging for a few days!

St Sava Temple

Well, the concept of this enormous Church was put forward in 1895, 300 years after the burning of Saint Sava's remains by the Turks, but there have been a number of interruptions since then, including a few wars and the Tito era.     Construction commenced in 1935 and recommenced in earnest in 1985 and the exterior was finished in 2003. However the interior is still not complete, although  some shrines have now been established which means that it is one of the world's largest Orthodox Churches (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_largest_Orthodox_cathedrals).   
It's a basilica or temple, as it's not the seat of a bishop (required for a cathedral).

We went past on Saturday to pay our respects and to check progress, before having a light lunch at a restaurant in the Vračar area, in a pleasant courtyard covered by a 150+ year old plane tree (I'm still trying to track down some more details of the restaurant).

 

Restaurant in Vračar

Kalimegdan

We went for a walk on Friday around Kalimegdan.    Our walk actually started at Akademski Park (adjacent to Studentski Trg), which is a pleasant area of greenery in the heart of the Stari Grad.     Kalimegdan itself has lots of greenery, great promenades and views, walls and gates from different periods, several restaurants, sporting facilities, a museum of artillery pieces, at least two Churches - as well as centuries of history!  We had a coffee/beer at the restaurant overlooking the point where the Sava meets the Danube.  Yes, prices are a little higher than elsewhere, but it's worth it!  

Akademski Park

One of the Churches

Restaurant Orašac

We had a quiet afternoon on Thursday after returning from the Slava at the Barajevo Monastery (many thanks indeed to Father Irinej for driving us both ways), then had a nice meal in the evening at Restaurant Orašac (see http://www.restorani.rs/restoran.php?restoran=161&language=2).   The photo from my phone doesn't really do the courtyard justice.

Manastirska Slava Sv. muc. Justin Filosof; prep. Justin Celijski, kod Barajevo

We attended the Monastery's Slava (Saint's Day) at Barajevo, presided over by Bishop Artemije.   About 400 people were present.  We were greatly privileged to have an audience with His Grace Bishop Artemije.   The service was greatly enhanced by the choral contribution of the Monahinje.   The Slava banquet was most impressive.

Arrival of His Grace Bishop Artemije

Monahinje

His Grace Bishop Artemije

Sitting at Slava tables

Slava

Father Naum

Father Irinej

Farewell to Vrnjačka Banja

Treatment centre, using spa water

We've returned to Belgrade from Vrnjačka Banja.   We had a very satisfactory self-contained apartment at Vrnjačka Banja and really enjoyed the relaxing atmosphere, especially the evening walks along the promenade, through the park and past the large villas (some still owed privately, we think).

EDIT - We've now been told that if you walk further out into the park, there are mineral springs that you can access without using the services of a "wellness centre".

Display of plants with health-giving properties

Restaurant - yes, we had dinner here! (But they're not all like this)

A day in Kraljevo

We had a very good day in Kraljevo on Tuesday.  This is a very pleasant town, about 40 minutes by bus from Vrnjačka Banja .   We refreshed ourselves with coffee and palacinke in one of the floating restaurants after our bus trip, noted very impressive main "square" (which is round) with its big statue and visited the Church of Holy Trinity.  But the highlights were Master-Vasa's Lodging (see earlier post) and the National Museum.

We were provided with a guide at the Museum.  I normally prefer to self-guide, but on this occasion it really added to the experience.     The Museum concentrates on matters relevant to the Kraljevo area.   It has a number of truly excellent displays on the many events that have occurred here over the centuries.  This included aspects of great interest to Sue, in relation to which it can be said that the Museum (like the fresco) acknowledges a slightly more rounded view of history than perhaps would have been the case in an earlier era.

A special area of research at the Museum is the Nazi massacre of 1941, when 100 civilians were shot in retaliation for every German death, and 50 for every injury.   The result is a very moving display.

Orthodox Spiritual Centre "Bishop Nikolaj Velimirovic"

We were in Kraljevo today (Tuesday) and visited Master-Vasa's Lodging (dating from 1831).  Today, it's the Orthodox Spiritual Centre "Bishop Nikolaj Velimirovic".  There is an impressive fresco which includes Saint Nikolaj, Saint Justin and we also noticed with interest that General Draza Mihailovic was depicted to the left of these figures.

We were privileged to have a tour of this Centre.   Other details about our excursion to follow!

Wellness at Vrnjačka Banja

A recent part of Merkur?

So, here we are at a spa resort - what about the mineral springs?

It seems to me that the main spring here in town forms part of the Merkur hotel "wellness" complex (see http://www.vrnjcispa.com/menu/3841/wellness--peloid--aqua--fitness/)  

We see from the map that there are also springs some distance out of town, but I wonder if they're also linked to "wellness" centres?    I guess it would probably be probably be possible to pay for particular sessions (we haven't enquired),  but my impression is that the hotels tend to cater for multi-day packages, including half or even full board plus a range of spa-type sessions.    Certainly, the Merkur's accommodation seemed very well occupied when walked past it last evening.    The main business of the cafes seems to be selling drinks rather than meals which to my mind tends to support the theory that many people take a meals package with their accommodation.

A less flattering view than on the web!

  The patronage seems very largely to be local, and in fact based on my limited reading on the web, I wonder if many such packages are supported by health funds/employers.

Some of the Merkur's facilities look quite modern, but at least one of the buildings clearly dates from an earlier era!

Yesterday we spent a little more time walking around Vrnjačka Banja.   We found the Church which dates from the 19th century, but has been rebuilt a couple of times (I guess functionality has to prevail over history sometimes).   We also found the Japanese Garden - quite attractive.  

 

 

Chilling out in Vrnjačka Banja

Belimarkovic "Castle"

Well, Djokovic didn't win the French Open, but apart from that, it's been a good day so far.    People have been relaxing in Vrnjačka Banja since Roman times (in fact, the Celtic Scordiscs had settled this area before the Roman conquest), and we did the same.
 

Coffee and pancakes in a terrace cafe

We took a walk through the parklands to the Belimarkovic Castle, which was built as the summer residence of the King's regent in the late 1880s.   These days, it's a museum with a number of different collections, including materials from both pre-historic and Roman times, a display of tourist materials from various periods in Vrnjačka Banja's history (especially from the Tito era), an impressive display of stuffed eagles and similar birds, a display of modern sculpture as well other items.    After that, we relaxed over coffee and pancakes in a terrace cafe, before retreating to the TV to watch Djokovic double-fault on championship point.

Return to Vrnjačka Banja

We visited Vrnjačka Banja on our bus tour of monasteries a few years back, but it was only an overnight stay, and we didn't have an opportunity to explore this pretty spa resort in any detail.    Hence, it has been something of an ambition to return.   Well, just over 3 hours from Belgrade by bus and here we are in a modern apartment with air conditioning (most welcome on a mid-30s, humid day), comfortably watching Djokovic in the final of the French open (at least, until rain stopped play).

One of the landmarks of Vrnjačka Banja is the Most Ljubavi (Bridge of Love).  As we've observed, for example in Paris, this isn't the only such bridge around,  but I can  vouch that the collection of padlocks is impressive.

Moussaka for family lunch

Rada made a lovely moussaka and Branislav and Gordana came over with Milhailo and Pavle for lunch.  It was a warm day and after lunch we sat around and watched Sharapova win the French Open women's final.   Since we had got up early and travelled to Barajevo and back in the morning, it was nice to chill out.  Then in the evening, Milutin dropped in and helped finish off all the food.  I forgot to take a photo of him!