A tourist in Istanbul

It's obviously presumptuous for a person who was only in the country for a few days, and only Istanbul at that (and in fact mainly in the tourist-oriented area of Sultanhamet), to comment on Turkey.   So these are strictly personal observations, obviously derived only from a limited tourist experience.

Outside the Palace

Obviously Hagia Sophia and the Topkaki Palace are world renowned tourist sites.    There were crowds at both of these.   Inside, the crowds aren't really an issue at Hagia Sophia, but they are at the Palace, where it was necessary on several occasions to queue for entry to particular sections.

On the other hand, the excellent Archeological Museums complex was almost deserted when I visited it, and there weren't too many people at the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts.

At Hagia Sophia and the palace, there were long queues for admission tickets at mid-morning which is when we, along with many others, tended to arrive.  However, my research had turned up that there is a "Museum Card", providing for admission to certain museums (including Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, Chora, the Museum of Islamic Arts and the Archeological Museum).  Not only was the queue for the card much shorter, it provided us with an incentive both to get out to Chora (which we were glad to do) and  visit the Harem section of the Palace (which is otherwise an additional cost).    And we came out ahead financially, too.

An interesting restaurant -  the cooking takes place on the boat

More generally, I had been led to believe that there would be quite a lot of hassling of tourists.    Yes, it's true that as you  walk past restaurants in the tourist area, you'll be offered menus, but usually all it takes is a polite shake of the head, keeping your eyes down, and mostly you'll be left alone.    The same applies to street vendors.    We were slightly more assertively approached on a only small number of occasions, but perhaps only  once or twice did we feel "hassled".

So far as dressing in the street, at least in the city area, there are no real constraints.   Likewise, beer and alcohol generally seems to be readily available, at least in the areas frequented by tourists, both in restaurants and in shops (to take away).    I acknowledge, however, that this might not apply in other areas.

The trams are modern

The traffic in parts can be congested, and the public transport system doesn't seem to be great (although if you needed to get around you'd probably manage: see map - http://www.urbanrail.net/as/tr/istanbul/istanbul-map.htm).  Most tourists probably don't venture beyond the user-friendly and efficient tram through the heart of the Sultanhamet area.   There is a limited metro, but we didn't use it as it didn't go anywhere that we wanted to get to (there are interchanges to it at two points on the tram line).  There are buses as well as taxis everywhere, with taxi fares not being too bad (although I suspect that they would mount up if you were caught up in traffic congestion).

 We took the tram to the terminus at Kabatas, but weren't swept off our feet by the scenery there!   There is a funicular here to Taksim Square, but we didn't venture on this!

Farewell to Belgrade and final reflections

We arrived in Serbia just over 3 weeks ago.    We've been based in Belgrade, but have had good side trips to Bosnia (Banja Luka/Sarajevo/Mostar), Vrnjacka Banja and Kraljevo.   A real highpoint has been our two visits to the Barajevo monastery.   We've been shown great hospitality (especially by Rada, with whom we've been staying), and we've benefited from an exchange rate which has worked in our favour.

We've had warm weather most of the time that we've been here.  The past few days have been well into 30s.   However, on most evenings there's a breeze which is nice.

There's always somewhere to have a drink, and I've noticed one or 2 Maccas.   I'm pleased to report I've seen no sign of Starbucks.  Many cafes have cappuccino on the menu, but what you receive varies.   It's better to consult the menu and - if available - ask for a Nescafe or "expresso with milk".   These are often better than what passes for cappuccino, and sometimes cheaper, too.

New tram (Spanish)

With Sue's language skills (and ability to read cyrillic),  we haven't really tested the ability to survive on English alone.   My assessment is that it would be possible, although a little preparation (such as writing down your destination!) would be in order.    We have encountered many people with excellent English who are very willing to use it, and almost everyone can understand a little but (understandably) are not always confident speaking it.   Restaurant menus (especially in areas where visitors are likely to be) are often available in English.    However, when travelling, it would be helpful to know the cyrillic version of your destination - although signs are usually in latin, there are exceptions!  With a little research, the trams, trolley buses and buses are easy to use in order to get around the city (although regular tram services can be altered at weekends, presumably to allow for upgrading work).

Modern trolley buses

Older tram

The time has now come to move on.  We're off to Istanbul today (Monday) for a few days, and from there will fly home at the end of the week.


For  dinner on our last night, we went to nearby restaurant Lipov Lad.   This was very good indeed, in fact, as good as any meal that we've had here.  Apparently we're not the only ones who like this restaurant, because Vuk Jeremic (well known politician) was at the next table.

I think I'll have internet access in Istanbul, but if this doesn't eventuate, then I guess there will be no blogging for a few days!

Thoughts on Sarajevo

Given its recent history, I was surprised at the vibrancy of Sarajevo (even though I had read that this was so).   The various cultures seem to co-exist, but who am I, as a short-term visitor, to comment on this?  The place most definitely is on the tourist circuit, which I expect contributes to the atmosphere.

Main mosque

One end of the main part of the city centre seems to be more Turkish in feel, with fewer restaurants selling alcohol (but certainly some do) and more small shops, whereas at the other end, every cafe has alcohol and the shops are more western in layout.

Grilled food is readily available at reasonable prices.  There are other restaurants, such as those in the hotels and the odd one or two (but not a lot) serving things such as pasta and Mexican food.   But as with Banja Luka, I haven't sighted  any Chinese, Thai or Indian restaurants.   Perhaps they're here, but if so, they're not very visible.

A section of the tram line is being reconstructed, so there are substitute buses - and quite a lot of traffic congestion as a result (not apparent from the photo, though).  There are numerous taxis, and although they're not expensive by world standards, they're not the great bargain that the information put out by the tourist office suggests!

Sebilj Fountain

I was apprehensive as to the quality of hotels, based on previous trips and some comments on the internet, and so went for top-of-the-range both in Banja Luka and here.   However, it's pretty clear that there are a number of new hotels in the next tier down in both cities,  which with the benefit of hindsight would have been perfectly adequate.
There a 2 long distance bus stations, and we will have to head a little way out of town to the Eastern bus station to catch the bus back to Belgrade

Beogradjani

We really feel that we've settled in as "Belgraders"!   Of course, this is due to Rada's great generosity in allowing us to stay with her in her home.   We come and go as we feel like it but we (well, Sue) do our washing, make a mess in the kitchen (and clean up) ...... just like home, really (except that there's even  less for me to do!).   And it's so convenient, just off Bulevar Kralja Aleksandar.

Bd Kalja Alexsandar

Perhaps after being here for a few days I may be permitted to make a few observations.

The city functions well!   We feel very comfortable walking the streets - perhaps even more so than in some parts of Melbourne (not that I let that worry me when I'm walking down William Street past the Magistrates Court).  We've used the trams a lot, and the traffic seems slightly more organised than last time I was here.    However, driving still involves knowing by instinct what the other guy is going to do, and judging to the last millimetre how much room you have to get past him.
Pedestrians seem better respected.   In the past, you didn't dare cross in the path of a turning car, even if you had the green (on one occasion, I was shouted at, "You're not in New York now"!);   now, more often than not (but not always!) the pedestrian is given the right of way.   And, by the way, I like the "count down" timers on a few of the traffic lights (even if the message is that you've got 61 seconds to wait!)


There's certainly a relaxed confidence about the place, somewhat  more so than I recall from previous visits.   New infrastructure is noticeable, such as the new bridge over the River Sava (forming part of the expressway by-pass of Belgrade) and some new trams and trolley buses (although some of  the older equipment seems a bit dubious - we were on one tram that broke down, and I've seen another).  Likewise, the new trams can't run on certain routes because the track needs to be upgraded.   The first stage of a subway system is, I understand, operational (but I haven't checked it out yet).   There are a number of building sites around.

The ticketing system on public transport is easy to use.   You buy a pre-paid card (which can be topped up) and touch on as you board.   Sure, it doesn't have the complexities of the Myki system, since the system is "one fare, one ride", but from what I gather, the change over took place without hassle last February.

There's a lot of smoking, even inside coffee shops on occasion (which I understand isn't supposed to occur).  And likewise with talking on mobile phones while driving.

I haven't been following exchange rates since I've been here (nothing you can do about them!), but I have noticed that every couple of days or so we get an extra dinar for our euro at our local exchange office.   Good for us, but perhaps not so good for the prices of products that Serbia needs to import. Exchange offices are everywhere, and are happy to take Australian currency.    ATMs, pharmacies, shoe shops and of course cafes are also all over the place.

Perhaps a little off-topic, one day we noticed a line of trucks parked close to the parliament complete with slogans of protest.   The slogans were apparently fairly generic (anti-corruption etc), so I'm not sure what the specific complaint was.

We're off to Bosnia tomorrow, so I suppose we'll revert to feeling like tourists!

Fare evasion?

We were on the number 5 tram, but it broke down.    Everyone had to get off, and we got on the number 2 tram to finish our journey.   We mulled over the dilemma - do we pay another fare?   Since our trip ought only to have involved a single journey, why should we pay another fare when, through no fault of ours, we were obliged to transfer to another tram?

I ventured the opinion that, in Melbourne, it wouldn't have been expected of you to pay again (in the days when each trip involved a separate ticket), so why should it be any different in Belgrade?

Although Rada who was with  us was inclined to agree with me, we took the conservative approach and in fact validated our cards again thus paying another fare at a cost of 60 dinars (just under 70 cents Australian).

I was still brooding about this possibly unnecessary extravagance when, lo and behold, a lady boarded the tram with a device in her hand.  A man near the back door made a hasty exit.   Yes, she was a ticket inspector - the only one we've seen so far in Belgrade.   And, when questioned, she asserted that had we not paid another fare, we would have been liable for a penalty fare.  Not fair, but on reflection, it was worth the 60 dinars each not to have had to have the argument!

Works in progress

Elizabeth St tramway works

I was recently in the city on a Saturday morning and was impressed at the amount of work that was taking place during this not-quite-as-busy-as usual time.   A section of Elizabeth Street was blocked off while major tramway replacement work was occurring. 

Waiting in Lonsdale St

Not only was Elizabeth Street a scene of activity, but trucks were waiting for their turn around the corner in Lonsdale Street.

In fact, tramway works at some location or other currently seem to be scheduled for just about every holiday break.   There has been recent publicity about work (and consequential changes to tram services) in St Kilda Rd (over Easter) and Swanston St, to name just two instances.   However, activity on the morning concerned was not limited to tramway works, as there was action at a number of other places, including the footpaths outside the Supreme Court in William Street.

Outside the Supreme Court

Of course various work in William Street has been  under way for some time.  First, there was the replacement of a major water main, and this has been followed by work on the kerbs on both sides of the street.   However, it is gratifying to see that some effort is apparently being made to perform at least some of the work at less-busy times, even if this comes at some cost to taxpayers in the form of penalty rates for working at weekends. 

Cafe Bedda

Guided by T and W, we ventured to Northcote a little while back, in search of Café Bedda.   It's Sicilian, and although I'm not really qualified to pass judgement on this, it certainly seemed authentic with its checkerboard floor and wooden tables.   The food and wine were good, too.

On their website, they set out a number of facts about themselves.  They’re definitely “up front”!  For example, they tell you that "The restaurant can be a little loud on the busy nights… Exactly like a Sicilian home would sound like during dinner".

High Street, Northcote isn't the most car-friendly place in Melbourne, so we trammed it.  This was very successful.  Although the trams only run every 15 minutes in the evening, with a little pre-planning everything went very satisfactorily.

Phone surveys

Generally, I refuse to answer surveys conducted by phone.   As a result of this, on one occasion I didn't participate in one of the well-known opinion polls regarding voting intentions.  Only later did I think about the name of the organisation that had been mentioned (but which I had not absorbed at the time) and realise that this could have been my opportunity to influence things.

However, when the opening sentence includes the word "public transport", I can't resist!  A particular group has been retained by the Department of Transport, who it seems are commissioned to undertake surveys from time to time on various aspects of the system.   So when I receive a phone call with the opening words "This is the Wallis Group and we're surveying user attitudes to [a particular aspect] of Melbourne's public transport", I sit back and  I offer my views!  Once I even wrote a follow-up letter to clarify one of my answers, and received a satisfactorily reply.

The only issue is that I've participated in 3 such surveys over the past couple of years!    I suspect that I've made it to a data-base of responsive people.  Perhaps writing a letter may not have been the best move had I wished not to be bothered.  I don't suppose there's anything wrong with this, so long as the Department is aware that the results it receives may be from some sort of  consultative panel, not users chosen at random! 

Chapel St (2)

Would Dan have approved?

I've mentioned that we were in Chapel Street recently. 

I have fond memories of the original Dan Murphy store, so I was a bit troubled to see that it is now (of all things) a JB Hi-Fi!     The wine store has moved over the road to much more modern premises.  Such is presumably the price of progress!
Wikipedia tells me that this was built in 1889 as "Prahran Arcade", and is sometimes known as "Birdland".  This derives from the eagles that adorn the facade - and also from the pigeons that lived in the recesses until netting was  installed.











  
And the W class trams still operate in Chapel St - but like all of us, they're not getting any younger!

Bridgeworks (2)

All the effort devoted to rebuilding the local bridge has paid off, and it's now open again to traffic. But that's not to say the work has finished!

There's still work to be done in the footpath area on the south side, and one lane of High Street remains blocked off.    But obviously the pressure no longer exists - there's not a sign of activity to be seen.   Except, that is, for a traffic management person, sitting alone in a nearby vehicle, presumably ready to respond if an unwary motorist runs into anything.   I guess that's our taxes at work?

Tram stop

I passed by the new tram stop outside the State Library in Swanston Street (Swanston Walk?) recently.   The roadway is now open only to bikes, and has been elevated to act as a platform for passengers when boarding trams.     Bikes are supposed to obey the normal traffic rules and not ride past the tram when passengers are boarding.   Passengers are expected to remain at the kerb (behind the yellow line) until the tram arrives.  Emergency vehicles can use the tram tracks.