Kalimegdan

We went for a walk on Friday around Kalimegdan.    Our walk actually started at Akademski Park (adjacent to Studentski Trg), which is a pleasant area of greenery in the heart of the Stari Grad.     Kalimegdan itself has lots of greenery, great promenades and views, walls and gates from different periods, several restaurants, sporting facilities, a museum of artillery pieces, at least two Churches - as well as centuries of history!  We had a coffee/beer at the restaurant overlooking the point where the Sava meets the Danube.  Yes, prices are a little higher than elsewhere, but it's worth it!  

Akademski Park

One of the Churches

Restaurant Orašac

We had a quiet afternoon on Thursday after returning from the Slava at the Barajevo Monastery (many thanks indeed to Father Irinej for driving us both ways), then had a nice meal in the evening at Restaurant Orašac (see http://www.restorani.rs/restoran.php?restoran=161&language=2).   The photo from my phone doesn't really do the courtyard justice.

Manastirska Slava Sv. muc. Justin Filosof; prep. Justin Celijski, kod Barajevo

We attended the Monastery's Slava (Saint's Day) at Barajevo, presided over by Bishop Artemije.   About 400 people were present.  We were greatly privileged to have an audience with His Grace Bishop Artemije.   The service was greatly enhanced by the choral contribution of the Monahinje.   The Slava banquet was most impressive.

Arrival of His Grace Bishop Artemije

Monahinje

His Grace Bishop Artemije

Sitting at Slava tables

Slava

Father Naum

Father Irinej

Farewell to Vrnjačka Banja

Treatment centre, using spa water

We've returned to Belgrade from Vrnjačka Banja.   We had a very satisfactory self-contained apartment at Vrnjačka Banja and really enjoyed the relaxing atmosphere, especially the evening walks along the promenade, through the park and past the large villas (some still owed privately, we think).

EDIT - We've now been told that if you walk further out into the park, there are mineral springs that you can access without using the services of a "wellness centre".

Display of plants with health-giving properties

Restaurant - yes, we had dinner here! (But they're not all like this)

A day in Kraljevo

We had a very good day in Kraljevo on Tuesday.  This is a very pleasant town, about 40 minutes by bus from Vrnjačka Banja .   We refreshed ourselves with coffee and palacinke in one of the floating restaurants after our bus trip, noted very impressive main "square" (which is round) with its big statue and visited the Church of Holy Trinity.  But the highlights were Master-Vasa's Lodging (see earlier post) and the National Museum.

We were provided with a guide at the Museum.  I normally prefer to self-guide, but on this occasion it really added to the experience.     The Museum concentrates on matters relevant to the Kraljevo area.   It has a number of truly excellent displays on the many events that have occurred here over the centuries.  This included aspects of great interest to Sue, in relation to which it can be said that the Museum (like the fresco) acknowledges a slightly more rounded view of history than perhaps would have been the case in an earlier era.

A special area of research at the Museum is the Nazi massacre of 1941, when 100 civilians were shot in retaliation for every German death, and 50 for every injury.   The result is a very moving display.

Orthodox Spiritual Centre "Bishop Nikolaj Velimirovic"

We were in Kraljevo today (Tuesday) and visited Master-Vasa's Lodging (dating from 1831).  Today, it's the Orthodox Spiritual Centre "Bishop Nikolaj Velimirovic".  There is an impressive fresco which includes Saint Nikolaj, Saint Justin and we also noticed with interest that General Draza Mihailovic was depicted to the left of these figures.

We were privileged to have a tour of this Centre.   Other details about our excursion to follow!

Wellness at Vrnjačka Banja

A recent part of Merkur?

So, here we are at a spa resort - what about the mineral springs?

It seems to me that the main spring here in town forms part of the Merkur hotel "wellness" complex (see http://www.vrnjcispa.com/menu/3841/wellness--peloid--aqua--fitness/)  

We see from the map that there are also springs some distance out of town, but I wonder if they're also linked to "wellness" centres?    I guess it would probably be probably be possible to pay for particular sessions (we haven't enquired),  but my impression is that the hotels tend to cater for multi-day packages, including half or even full board plus a range of spa-type sessions.    Certainly, the Merkur's accommodation seemed very well occupied when walked past it last evening.    The main business of the cafes seems to be selling drinks rather than meals which to my mind tends to support the theory that many people take a meals package with their accommodation.

A less flattering view than on the web!

  The patronage seems very largely to be local, and in fact based on my limited reading on the web, I wonder if many such packages are supported by health funds/employers.

Some of the Merkur's facilities look quite modern, but at least one of the buildings clearly dates from an earlier era!

Yesterday we spent a little more time walking around Vrnjačka Banja.   We found the Church which dates from the 19th century, but has been rebuilt a couple of times (I guess functionality has to prevail over history sometimes).   We also found the Japanese Garden - quite attractive.  

 

 

Chilling out in Vrnjačka Banja

Belimarkovic "Castle"

Well, Djokovic didn't win the French Open, but apart from that, it's been a good day so far.    People have been relaxing in Vrnjačka Banja since Roman times (in fact, the Celtic Scordiscs had settled this area before the Roman conquest), and we did the same.
 

Coffee and pancakes in a terrace cafe

We took a walk through the parklands to the Belimarkovic Castle, which was built as the summer residence of the King's regent in the late 1880s.   These days, it's a museum with a number of different collections, including materials from both pre-historic and Roman times, a display of tourist materials from various periods in Vrnjačka Banja's history (especially from the Tito era), an impressive display of stuffed eagles and similar birds, a display of modern sculpture as well other items.    After that, we relaxed over coffee and pancakes in a terrace cafe, before retreating to the TV to watch Djokovic double-fault on championship point.

Return to Vrnjačka Banja

We visited Vrnjačka Banja on our bus tour of monasteries a few years back, but it was only an overnight stay, and we didn't have an opportunity to explore this pretty spa resort in any detail.    Hence, it has been something of an ambition to return.   Well, just over 3 hours from Belgrade by bus and here we are in a modern apartment with air conditioning (most welcome on a mid-30s, humid day), comfortably watching Djokovic in the final of the French open (at least, until rain stopped play).

One of the landmarks of Vrnjačka Banja is the Most Ljubavi (Bridge of Love).  As we've observed, for example in Paris, this isn't the only such bridge around,  but I can  vouch that the collection of padlocks is impressive.

Moussaka for family lunch

Rada made a lovely moussaka and Branislav and Gordana came over with Milhailo and Pavle for lunch.  It was a warm day and after lunch we sat around and watched Sharapova win the French Open women's final.   Since we had got up early and travelled to Barajevo and back in the morning, it was nice to chill out.  Then in the evening, Milutin dropped in and helped finish off all the food.  I forgot to take a photo of him!

Барајевo

We visited the манастир Преподобног Јустина Ћелијског at Barajevo for the Saturday morning liturgy.  The area is very beautiful and peaceful.  We were made very welcome indeed, and were especially happy to catch up with Father Naum (who we had met in Australia at the St Sava festival in Canberra last January).

 

 

Konak under construction

Ada Ciganlija

Restaurants in the former wharf area

Branislav very kindly gave us a tour of some of the places of interest around Belgrade.  We saw the most impressive redevelopment of the river wharf area and the old buildings in the vicinity of the bus station that have been given what we call "heritage protection", meaning that the facades are protected.  It is planned that they will be developed as upmarket housing.  He told us that the bus and railway station sites are also ear-marked for redevelopment.  We were driven around the embassy district,with its very impressive embassies and associated residences, along with the residences of some of the rich and (in)famous locals (no photos allowed!)

Facades to be preserved

Ice cream time on Ada Ciganlija

Ada Ciganlija

But we also stopped for a really relaxing break on Ada Ciganlija island - well, it was an island, but now it's linked by causeway to the mainland.  This is a large complex in the Sava river, with extensive artificial beaches, a golf course, barbeque facilities, bike riding paths, a rugby stadium and numerous other facilities.   We had a very pleasant drink at one of the many restaurants, and Mihailo who was with us enjoyed some quality play time.